A reproductive biologist from Australia, a wildlife symposium in Campo Grande, and five days alone at the Caiman Ecological Refuge, told in her own words
Andrea Laws-King, 67, is a reproductive biologist, an endurance horse rider, and a business owner from Australia. She flew to Brazil to attend the International Symposium on Reproductive Biotechnology for Wildlife Conservation in Campo Grande, the capital of Mato Grosso do Sul and the main gateway to the Southern Pantanal.
After the event, she would have a few free days that could be spent on a trip to get to know the country better. While researching potential destinations, she came across the Pantanal—a place she had never heard of before. Given its proximity to Campo Grande and her interest in nature and animals, she decided it would be the perfect destination for her solo trip.
In August 2026, Andrea spent five days at the Caiman Ecological Refuge, a 53,000-hectare private reserve that welcomes guests from around the world to luxurious accommodations and organizes ecotourism and conservation activities. The entire trip was planned and booked through PlanetaEXO. This is her story. Check it out below!
Photo: Andrea Laws-King
Encounters with jaguars through Onçafari
During her stay, Andrea got a close-up look at the work of the Onçafari Project, a conservation and protection initiative for jaguars that employs habituation practices to familiarize the animals with human presence to facilitate research and enhance ecotourism. The program was established in 2011 at Caiman’s own grounds, making it the best place in the entire Southern Pantanal to spot these mighty felines.
Although she knew about Onçafari through the itinerary booked with PlanetaEXO, she didn’t fully grasp what the project entailed—but it didn’t take long for her to become enchanted by the work of the professionals involved. “I really enjoyed my day with Onçafari, seeing and learning about the jaguars,” she said. “It was a definite eye-opener with regard to wildlife conservation.”
Worth knowing: the regular game drives at Caiman already give you good odds of a jaguar sighting, but the Onçafari Experience, which offers an immersive way to understand the science of the project, is a paid add-on. Just like Andrea, many travelers say it’s worth the investment!
Hyacinth macaws, new trees, and a heart-warming homage
After coming across the Blue Macaw Project on Caiman’s website, Andrea requested to join the activity as soon as she arrived at the lodge. The hyacinth macaw, recognized as the largest flying parrot on the planet, remains classified as vulnerable. Founded in 1990 by researcher Neiva Guedes, the initiative is funded by fixed contributions from these outings, with every cent going straight to protection efforts.
Andrea and her group, with families from France and England, watched the scientists climb the trees to check the nests. “I loved going out with them to visit natural nests and nesting boxes for the hyacinth macaws while being observed by these magnificent birds.”
During the tour, Andrea was pleasantly surprised by the opportunity to plant a tree. Happy and moved to be able to contribute to the local flora after having observed one of the Pantanal’s most iconic animals, she considers this one of the most memorable moments of the trip—and for a very personal reason. “I was asked to put a name on [the tree]! The group suggested my elderly dog, Snowball, who had just passed away in Australia,” she recalled fondly.
Perfect mix: nature, expert guides, and premium hospitality
The itinerary follows the rhythm of nature at Caiman. Safaris take place in the early morning and again in the afternoon—when animals are most active and the chances of spotting them are greatest. Upon returning to the lodge at the end of the day, as darkness settles over the Pantanal landscape, the guides use spotlights to find nocturnal animals.
Speaking of guides, Andrea’s verdict on them is positively direct. “The guides were extremely knowledgeable. They wanted everyone to see maximum birds and wildlife. Their respect for the animals and the environment was immeasurable.”
Back at Caiman, she soon noticed the contrast between the untouched nature and the high-end services she enjoyed as a guest. “The lodge experience was amazing! The stay experience was phenomenal in between game drives in the open vehicles,” she marveled.
The main accommodation, Casa Caiman, is a former farmhouse with 18 suites, a restaurant, a bar, a swimming pool, and a deck overlooking the bay. Andrea couldn’t have been more satisfied. “The organization at Caiman was superb,” she praised. “The comfort was next to none, and the staff could not have been better!”
As a child, Andrea visited Rio de Janeiro with her family. Years later, she returned to Brazil as an adult woman—alone and in a country completely different from her own. “I was excited, albeit a little nervous,” she admitted. Thankfully, the nerves didn’t last for long. “I felt safe during my stay, and the local people were all very welcoming.”
Having a specialized team organizing the logistics of the trip also made a difference. “Going to the Pantanal on a trip organized by PlanetaEXO made it easy being a solo female traveler,” she said. “The pickup and drop-off were seamless, and the team kept me well informed. I felt very safe.”
Andrea’s recommendations for an unforgettable experience at the Pantanal and Caiman
When asked about useful tips for those traveling to the Pantanal for the first time, Andrea had no doubt about her answer. “Definitely book through PlanetaEXO and do the Caiman trip. The experience is exactly as described [online].”
She also took note of horseback riding, though she opted to skip it herself. Since she already works professionally in the field of endurance riding, she preferred to focus on activities that fall outside her daily routine. However, she did observe that the rides are excellent for those with less experience.
“[At Caiman], horseback rides are geared toward non-riders, featuring a slow pace and a 'follow-the-leader' approach.”A great tip for beginners!
Photo: Lais Moura
The Pantanal in three words and Andrea’s next travel plans
Impressed by the comfort at Caiman, the connection with nature, and the beauty of the Pantanal, Andrea summed up her travel experience in three words: “Expansive. Remote. Wonder.”
The trip in Brazil was so positive that she already wants to return—and to a different destination this time. “I would love to visit the Amazon next time! Piranhas and pink dolphins? Yes, please!”
Visiting Caiman and the South Pantanal with PlanetaEXO
Now that you’ve met Caiman through Andrea’s eyes, you know what this corner of the Pantanal offers: jaguar research you can see up close, hyacinth macaws watching you from their nests, and real comfort in between game drives.
PlanetaEXO is an ecotourism platform specializing in Southern Pantanal tours. Working alongside experienced local guides and operators, we handle the logistics (the transfer from Campo Grande, the lodge, the meals, and the activity program), so you can focus on the wildlife. Contact us now!
Practical Manaus travel tips on safety, health, food, morning sightseeing, and activities for travelers spending a few days in the city around their time in the rainforest
Manaus is the main gateway to the Brazilian Amazon, but the most memorable experiences often begin beyond the city. From remote jungle lodges and small-group river cruises to guided camping expeditions, there are many ways to explore the world’s largest tropical rainforest.
If you’re planning an Amazon tour from Manaus in Brazil, these 10 practical tips will help you travel safely, choose the right experience, avoid common tourist traps, and make the most of your time in the region.
PlanetaEXO, an ecotourism platform specializing in Amazon Rainforest tours in Brazil, has put together this guide for travelers visiting Manaus—especially if you have plans to explore the forest. Check it out below!
Photo: Paulo Mateus Oliveira Guerra
1) Spend Less Time in Manaus and More Time in the Amazon Rainforest
While Manaus is the main hub for accessing the Brazilian Amazon, if you’ve traveled all this way, why spend most of your time in the city? The real experience begins when you leave the urban landscape behind and venture deeper into the rainforest.
Instead of filling your itinerary with city sightseeing and short day trips, we recommend spending at least 3 to 5 days immersed in nature. This gives you time to explore remote rivers, walk through the jungle with local guides, observe wildlife in its natural habitat, and experience the Amazon at a slower pace.
There are several ways to experience the rainforest, depending on your comfort level and sense of adventure:
Amazon jungle lodges: stay surrounded by the rainforest, with guided jungle walks, canoe excursions, wildlife watching, and opportunities to learn about local communities. From simple jungle accommodation to comfortable eco-lodges, there’s something for every travel style.
Amazon river cruises: explore the Rio Negro and its tributaries aboard small expedition boats, reaching remote areas that are difficult to access on day trips. Wake up to the sounds of nature, navigate narrow forest waterways, and discover a different side of the Amazon each day.
Jungle camping and survival expeditions: for more adventurous travelers, spending nights camping in the rainforest offers a deeper connection with nature. Learn jungle survival techniques from experienced local guides, prepare food in the forest, and sleep surrounded by the sounds of the Amazon.
One of the biggest advantages of staying in the rainforest is experiencing it at different times of day. Early mornings are ideal for birdwatching, while nighttime excursions reveal an entirely different side of the jungle.
Our recommendation: treat Manaus as your arrival and departure point, rather than the main destination. A night in the city may be useful for flight connections, but prioritize your time in the rainforest.
2) Stay Safe: Choose the Right Neighborhood, Ride and Habits
Manaus asks for the same awareness as any big city. For visitors, the risk is mostly opportunistic theft, like phone snatching and pickpocketing. To avoid any problems, see our recommendations!
Where to stay in Manaus
Some neighborhoods are more suitable for tourists than others. When selecting your accommodation, consider:
Ponta Negra: riverside hotels, restaurants, and a well-policed promenade. The best base for relaxing after the forest.
Adrianópolis and Vieiralves: quiet residential streets, malls, restaurants, and bars that stay busy with locals in the evening.
Centro Histórico: great by day, but it empties after dark, so avoid lingering past 8 PM.
Skip: Compensa, São José Operário, and any informal settlement. There’s no tourist reason to go.
The night before your Manaus Amazon tour, stay in the Centro or Adrianópolis—Ceasa Port, where several boats leave from, is about 20 minutes away. Save Ponta Negra, on the opposite side of the city, for after you return.
Getting around and habits that help
Use Uber or 99, including from the airport, about 14 km from the center. Request rides only in the app and check the plate before getting in.
Ignore drivers and “guides” who approach you in the arrivals hall, and skip city buses at night.
Keep your phone out of sight on the street, leave your passport in the hotel safe, and split cash and cards between two places.
Withdraw cash inside bank branches during the day and watch your bag at the Mercado Adolpho Lisboa—a favorite spot for pickpockets.
3) Eat Like a Local (and Plan Ahead for Dietary Needs)
The Manaus food scene is built on river fish, cassava, and fruits that grow wild in the forest. One dish is even protected by law: the X-caboquinho sandwich became intangible heritage of Manaus in 2019.
Where to eat in Manaus:
Tambaqui: the region’s favorite fish, best grilled. Try Tambaqui de Banda (R. José Clemente, 596), facing the opera house.
Tacacá: a hot soup of tucupi, jambu (a leaf that numbs your lips), and dried shrimp. Locals have it mid-afternoon at stalls such as Tacacá da Gisela (Largo de São Sebastião, Centro).
X-caboquinho: a roll with tucumã palm fruit, fried plantain, and curd cheese, sold in bakeries from dawn.
Contemporary cuisine: explore some of the most iconic restaurants in the city, like Banzeiro (R. Libertador, 102), Caxiri (R. 10 de Julho, 495), and Biatüwi (R. Bernardo Ramos, 97).
Açaí: the real, authentic Amazonian açaí is unsweetened and eaten with savory food like fried fish and dried shrimp. Try it at AçaíBelém (R. Alexandre Magno, 497) and Waku Sese (R. Purus, 260).
Manaus restaurants beyond regional food
Vieiralves, Adrianópolis, and the Amazonas Shopping and Manauara Shopping malls have Japanese, Italian, Portuguese, and burger places. Most restaurants add an optional 10% service charge, so there’s no need to tip on top.
If you have dietary restrictions, these should be useful for you:
Vegan and vegetarian: for fully natural and plant-based dishes, Edi Sabor Natural (Av. Márui Ypiranga, 54) is a favorite in the city.
Gluten-free:tapioca, farinha, and tucupi are naturally gluten-free, but ask about shared fryers (sem glúten).
Lodges and cruises: mention any restriction when booking, since supplies in the forest are limited.
Inaugurated in 1896 during the rubber boom, the landmark Teatro Amazonas was officially designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site on July 27, 2026, alongside Belém’s historic Theatro da Paz. Guided tours run Tuesday to Sunday from 9 AM. Outside, Largo de São Sebastião has a church, a wave-patterned pavement, and tacacá stalls in the evening.
Historic center
Start at the Mercado Adolpho Lisboa, opened in 1883 with ironwork shipped from Europe, then walk Avenida Eduardo Ribeiro to the Palácio Rio Negro and finish at the Mirante Lúcia Almeida, a viewpoint over the Rio Negro.
MUSA, the Museu da Amazônia
Focused on science and culture, the Museu da Amazônia (MUSA) borders the Adolpho Ducke Forest Reserve, inside the city, and its 42-meter tower rises above the canopy. Closed shoes are mandatory, and guided trails need booking.
Bosque da Ciência
Run by INPA, Brazil’s National Institute for Amazonian Research, the Bosque da Ciência is a forest park with Amazonian manatees and giant otters. Visitation is free, but advance booking is required.
If you have one extra day
Presidente Figueiredo: waterfalls and caves about 2 hours north. Go on a weekday, or make it a multi-day trip with the 4-day Amazon Kayak Tour Brazil.
Museu do Seringal: an open-air museum that recreates a rubber-tapping estate, 25–30 minutes by boat from Marina do Davi. Combine it with Praia da Lua, on the same route. It’s also part of the Untamed Amazon Cruise: 5-day Forest Tour in Brazil.
Photo: Lucia Barreiros Silva
5) Explore the City in the Morning
When you plan what to do in Manaus, put the sightseeing in the morning: the heat peaks in the early afternoon, rainy-season storms (December to May) arrive after lunch, and crowds show up later. The sun rises around 6 AM year-round. Here’s a suggested schedule:
6–8 AM:X-caboquinho breakfast and the Mercado Adolpho Lisboa.
8:30–11 AM: the MUSA tower, the Teatro Amazonas tour, or the Bosque da Ciência.
12–3PM: lunch and a rest at the hotel.
5–6:30 PM: sunset at Ponta Negra, then dinner and a ride-hailing app back.
To make the most of your time, plan ahead: check the schedule for Teatro Amazonas events, book MUSA’s guided trails or sunrise tours in advance, and secure your reservations months early if you are visiting during the Festival de Parintins in late June.
Photo: Amazonastur
6) Visit the Beaches in Manaus, but Mind the Details
The beaches in Manaus are river beaches on the Rio Negro and among the city’s top attractions. They are also where locals spend the weekend, so timing matters.
Ponta Negra Beach: go in the late afternoon for the sunset over the river. Treat it as a promenade, since swimming is banned when the river drops below 16 m.
Praia do Tupé and Praia da Lua: reached only by boat from Marina do Davi. Go on a weekday morning, when they’re calmer, and confirm the return boat before you leave.
If your Manaus Amazon tour includes a lodge or cruise on the Rio Negro, you may not need the city beaches at all: Anavilhanas has white-sand beaches in the dry season, often with only your group on them.
Season, drought, and timing
Beaches are largest from August to November, when the river is low.
In severe droughts, swimming is banned, and boat routes change.
Arrive before 11 AM, wear sunscreen, and never swim alone.
Photo: Mário Oliveira
7) Skip Rushed Itineraries and Arrival-Hall Deals
Rushed itineraries: the classic day tour squeezes the Meeting of the Waters, a lake, an “Indigenous village” show, and a dolphin stop into 6 to 7 hours.
Mass-tourism excursions: large boats, the same fixed stops for every group, and staged shows. If you want a day on the river, choose a small boat and ask what each stop includes.
Tours sold in the arrivals hall: discounted jungle trips paid in cash up front, or boat tickets from touts at the port.
Before traveling, secure your Amazon tours from Manaus in Brazil with a licensed company: ask for their credential in Cadastur (Brazilian system of tourism companies and professionals) and official CNPJ number (company ID), and be wary of prices well below standard rates, as legitimate 3-day lodge itineraries generally cost between US$400 and US$1,200.
8) Say No to Forced Wildlife Interactions
On day tours departing from Manaus, there are documented instances of unethical activities involving wildlife. To make them more docile and amenable to human contact, it is not uncommon for the animals to be drugged.
Although swimming with or feeding pink river dolphins is often presented as a friendly activity, these animals belong to an endangered species, and such artificial encounters disrupt their natural behavior patterns.
Paying to pose with sloths, caimans, snakes, or other wildlife for pictures is another harmful activity—and it is illegal in Brazil. These animals are kept in captivity simply to serve as props for tourist selfies.
Real wildlife sightings are spontaneous, like a river dolphins surfacing beside the canoe or a sloth spotted by your guide, and none is guaranteed. Bring binoculars, keep your distance, and let the animals set the pace.
Buying straight from Indigenous artisans and small producers keeps your money in the region and gets you pieces with a known origin. If you’re looking for authentic souvenirs to take home, try these places:
GaleriAmazônica (R. Costa Azevedo, 272): work from at least 15 Indigenous peoples, labeled with the group and materials.
Praça Tenreiro Aranha (R. Guilherme Moreira, 53) and Largo de São Sebastião (R. 10 de Julho, s/n): craft stalls and shops in the Centro, with seed jewelry, baskets, and hammocks.
Shops in the tourist core: convenient, but pricier for the same items.
Steer clear of any items crafted from animal skins, claws, teeth, or feathers. Purchasing or selling these products is illegal under Brazilian law, and exporting them requires official authorization from Ibama, the national environmental agency.
Photo: Eduardo Amorim
10) Take Care of Your Health in the Equatorial Heat
According to INMET (Brazil’s weather service), average highs in Manaus range from 31 °C in February to 34.1 °C in September, with 75–86% humidity.
To cope with the heat, drink bottled water all day, wear SPF 30+ and a hat, and choose light, long-sleeved clothing.
Vaccines and mosquitoes
Yellow fever: not required to enter Brazil, but it is recommended for the state of Amazonas. Get it at least 10 days before the trip and 30 days apart from the measles vaccine.
Malaria and dengue: the primary way to prevent mosquito-borne diseases is to avoid them. Use a repellent containing at least 20% DEET or picaridin, prioritize clothing that covers the skin, and keep windows and doors closed at night. Hotels in the area are usually equipped with mosquito nets.
Medical emergencies
Emergency medical services in Brazil are provided free of charge through the public health system, SUS, which covers international travelers as well. In Manaus, the main public emergency hospital is the Hospital e Pronto-Socorro 28 de Agosto in Adrianópolis.
Because private healthcare facilities require payment or comprehensive coverage, and jungle lodges sit hours away from medical care, securing travel insurance that includes medical evacuation alongside all planned activities is essential.
Plan Your Amazon Tour From Manaus in Brazil with PlanetaEXO
Manaus is an interesting city to explore, but if your goal is to discover the Amazon rainforest, we recommend spending most of your time in nature. Whether you choose a jungle lodge, river cruise, or camping expedition, a multi-day experience offers more opportunities to explore remote waterways, observe wildlife, and learn from local guides.
PlanetaEXO is an ecotourism platform specializing in adventure tours in Brazil. We work with the best local operators in the Amazon and handle every detail of your trip, from the hotel pickup in Manaus to tailor-made itineraries in the forest. Contact us now!
“Far From The Crowds, Close To What Matters” highlights how a low-volume tourism model is transforming the lives of traditional communities inside the newly designated UNESCO World Heritage site.
PlanetaEXO has officially released its new short film, “Lençóis Maranhenses: Far From The Crowds, Close To What Matters.” Premiering on September 23 on YouTube, the documentary explores the profound socioeconomic impact of a low-volume, multi-day trekking model in Brazil’s Lençóis Maranhenses National Park, contrasting the reality of remote communities with the growing wave of mass tourism in the region.
The national park is currently facing a moment of unprecedented tourist exposure. In 2025, propelled by its new title as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the destination welcomed 656,388 visitors, a 41% leap from the previous year, according to the ICMBio.
Understanding the best time to visit Lençóis Maranhenses has become crucial for travelers aiming to avoid massive crowds, but the mini-doc shifts the focus even further away from the easily accessible lagoons. Instead, it highlights the communities located in and around the reserve that bet on overnight stays in local homes as a source of income.
Far beyond the crowded lagoons: the spectacular scenery of the Lençóis Maranhenses, where low-impact tourism is transforming the lives of those who live in the park. (Credit: Isadora Sá)
“We intentionally keep the smallest share,” explains Lucas Ribeiro, founder of PlanetaEXO and director of the short film. “If the majority of the money doesn’t stay with the people who host the traveler, cook for them, and walk alongside them, it’s not community-based tourism; it’s just a pretty landscape being sold.”
Hard Data Backing the Narrative
The operational data from PlanetaEXO, which connects travelers directly with native partners, proves the viability of the format showcased in the mini-doc. Over the last two seasons, the company facilitated the dune crossing for a restricted group of just 583 travelers.
By retaining 80% of gross earnings within the destination, the operation funneled more than R$ 1.4 million (approximately U$ 250,000) straight into the local economy. These funds were distributed directly to host families, drivers, and guides without middleman fees.
Away from the crowds, close to what matters. Overland tourism focuses on small groups to ensure that a high percentage of revenue stays in local communities. (Credit: Isadora Sá)
Trading Fishing Nets for Hospitality
“Far From The Crowds, Close To What Matters” illustrates these figures through the daily lives of residents in the Baixa Grande oasis, located hours away from the nearest road.
After dedicating himself to subsistence fishing, Seu Moacir saw his income transform. “Twenty years in fishing. We used to catch fish to sell, and it yielded almost nothing. Tourism provides a bit more,” he shares in the film.
“Everything used to be very difficult,” adds Dona Dete, his wife and co-host. “Then tourism came and things improved, thank God. Our place was smaller; we had few little houses. Now it’s better. I have the means to host more people.”
From fishermen to hosts: Dona Dete and Seu Moacir have seen their lives transform thanks to income from tourism in the Baixa Grande oasis. (Credit: Marcelo Bonifácio)
For travelers seeking authentic Lençóis Maranhenses tours, stepping away from mass tourism is a key factor. “We wanted to visit in a non-touristy way. We didn’t want to be in huge groups,” explains French traveler Morgane Meyer in a testimonial captured during the trek.
In search of an authentic experience far from mass tourism, French travelers Morgane and Guillaume opted for the classic cross-country hike. (Credit: Isadora Sá)
Portuguese tourist Diogo Melo agrees. “The positive impact it has on the communities is very obvious. When we stay [in their homes], you can tell that this helps families achieve a more stable standard of living.”
For Portuguese traveler Diogo Melo, the best part of the trip is witnessing the positive and direct impact that tourism has on the stability of host families. (Credit: Isadora Sá)
The film is part of PlanetaEXO’s efforts to prove that tourism in Brazil’s natural areas must decentralize income, transforming conservation and local development into a profitable business model for local partners.
Technical Sheet | “Lençóis Maranhenses: Far From The Crowds, Close To What Matters”
Format: Short Documentary
Duration: 5 min 30 sec
Director: Lucas Ribeiro
Director of Photography: Isadora Sá and Marcelo Bonifácio
Editing: Marcelo Bonifácio
Interviews: Lucas Ribeiro and Isadora Sá
Cast: Seu Moacir and Dona Dete (Baixa Grande – Lençóis Maranhenses), Bruno Lamas (Brazil), Carol Costa (Brazil), Diogo Melo (Portugal), Franck Nicolas (France), Guillaume Poupin (France), Magali Liprandi (France), Marcelo Zelarayán (Barreirinhas – Brazil), and Morgane Meyer (France).
Depth, seaside, and skill level for each of the 21 dive sites Noronha’s licensed operators run, plus the park rules and the best months to dive
Fernando de Noronha has 21 named dive sites spread across two coasts, and picking one is less about which is prettiest than about which side of the island is workable that week. The archipelago is protected by a National Marine Park and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It offers excellent diving conditions, with an average water temperature of 26°C year-round, and features sites ideal for both beginners and experienced divers.
Roughly 40% of visitors scuba dive and about 75% snorkel or free dive, according to Projeto Golfinho Rotador, the NGO that has monitored the area’s spinner dolphins since 1990. No one dives here alone: the park only allows tank dives run by ICMBio-authorized operators, so the real question is which sites your certification and the season allow. Want to know which ones match your level?
PlanetaEXO, an ecotourism platform specializing in diving tours in Brazil, has put together this guide to the best dive sites in Fernando de Noronha. Check it out below!
Dive Sites in Fernando de Noronha
Fernando de Noronha dive sites are divided between the Mar de Dentro (the sheltered coast facing the Brazilian mainland) and the Mar de Fora (the open-ocean side facing Africa).
That split decides your calendar more than anything else: the inner sea dives best from July to December, and the outer sea from March to May.
Depths below are the working depths published by Noronha’s licensed operators, not maximum bottom depths.
Cabeço da Sapata (42m)
Cabeço da Sapata is a deep pinnacle on the Mar de Dentro, dived multilevel and reserved for advanced and technical divers. The deeper you go, the bigger the fish: black grouper, badejo, rays, and the occasional shark.
It sits off Ponta da Sapata, the headland the Corveta Ipiranga V17 struck in 1983, which is why the wreck lies where it does.
A naturally lit cave roughly 15 m high and 30 m long, big enough that the light changes as you move through it. It shelters large rays and black grouper.
The site gets current, but operators run it for basic and advanced divers alike, which makes it one of the few cave dives on the island open to newly certified divers.
Corveta Ipiranga V17 (62m)
The most complete shipwreck in the country, and for many divers, the top of any list of the best scuba diving spots in Brazil.
The Brazilian Navy corvette Ipiranga, about 56 m long and launched in Rotterdam in 1954, hit Ponta da Sapata on 3 October 1983 and took eight hours to go down. Now, it rests upright at 62 m (structure intact) with crew belongings still inside.
Deep or technical certification and an operator assessment are required before you are cleared to dive here.
A reef off the twin peaks of Morro Dois Irmãos and one of the most dived sites by certified divers on the island. Up to 22 m, you see green turtles, spotted eagle rays, and sharks.
Moderate depth and good structure make it the usual second or third dive of a trip.
Morro de Fora (16m)
Close to Praia da Conceição, on the sheltered side, with dives to 16 m. The site is known for its concentration of fire coral; moray eels, trumpetfish, and blennies hide in the rock.
It’s an easy, colorful dive for beginners moving past their first tanks.
Ilha do Meio (15m)
Sheltered and calm, sitting between the two seas, with dives to 15 m. Its small caves keep producing surprises: nurse sharks resting on sand, moray eels, and shoals that hold still long enough to photograph.
One of the best dive sites in Fernando de Noronha for underwater photographers and for divers on their first certified experiences.
Ressurreta (8–12 m)
Ressurreta sits between Ilha da Rata and Ilha do Meio, in 8 to 12 m of calm water. It is the standard site for discovery dives and one of the few run as a night dive.
Groupers and barracudas frequently swim through the area, with the shallow waters allowing for extended bottom time.
The shallow, sheltered start of the Cagarras formation (dived to about 22 m). It takes discovery dives and certified divers on the same site: lobsters wedged in the rock, octopus, rays and a steady traffic of reef fish.
Cagarras Funda (33m)
The deep half of the same formation (dived to about 33 m) where the rock walls bottom out at 34 m. Advanced divers get canyons, overhangs, and the bigger pelagic traffic that the shallow section does not see. Currents are the norm here, so it is run as a drift.
Buraco do Inferno (15m)
Although its name translates to “hell’s hole,” this submerged cave is far more inviting than it sounds. Located at a depth of around 15 m, the site boasts dramatic rock structures where sea turtles, octopuses, and lobsters frequently seek refuge in the rock crevices.
Calm, shallow, and easy to navigate, it suits beginners and intermediate divers.
Cordilheiras (30m)
A 30 m rock wall near Ilha da Rata, and one of the more dramatic profiles in the archipelago. The draw is the geology as much as the fish: a single continuous face with reef life stacked along it. Due to depth and exposure, it's considered an advanced-level dive.
Pontal do Norte (42m)
Deep and exposed, at 42 m, at the northern tip of the island. Large fish and dense marine life are the reward; strong currents and depth are the price. When conditions line up, only experienced divers are allowed.
Cabeço das Cordas (17–33m)
One site, two dives. The shallow section down to 17 m is open to basic divers, while advanced divers continue to 33 m. Current is the defining feature, and it brings the fish: schools of jacks, dog snapper, and piranjica.
Macaxeira (40m)
At the far north of the island, on the Mar de Fora, at 40 m. Constant current carries you to a wall of collapsed rock and then onto an algae plateau where jacks, anchovies, and spotted eagle rays pass.
Its best-known feature is the Eel Garden, where nurse and lemon sharks turn up occasionally.
Buraco das Cabras (15m)
A drift dive that starts on the outer sea and finishes on the inner sea, at around 15 m. Volcanic rock formations shelter turtles, rays, surgeonfish, and piranjica, with corals, sponges, and feeding shoals along the way. The crossing between the two coasts is the point of the dive.
Caieiras (17m)
A 17 m dive between three rock formations, thick with algae, which makes it one of the feeding and resting areas for sea turtles. Sharpnose sharks, barracuda, and passing shoals also show up regularly. One of the best dive sites in Fernando de Noronha for intermediate divers.
Pedras Secas (15m)
Only 15 m deep, Pedras Secas is routinely named among the best diving spots in Brazil. The rock forms corridors, canyons, arches, grottoes, and small caves you swim through rather than over. Barracuda, rays, turtles, and lobsters live in the maze.
Frade (8–22m)
Situated in front of Praia do Atalaia on the Mar de Fora, off Ilha do Frade, offering dive depths ranging from 8 to 22 m.
It is one of the busiest sites on the island because of the sheer variety of fish, rays, turtles, lobsters, and morays. The depth range means beginners and certified divers can share the same site.
Trinta Réis (22m)
A small island on the outer sea, off Enseada dos Abreus, dived to 22 m. The highlight is a canyon between two rock walls. Sharks, rays, turtles, and very large shoals of surgeonfish and piranjica use the passage.
Cabeço Submarino (23m)
One of the most interesting formations on the Mar de Fora, opposite Baía do Sueste. The dive is a spiral ascent to 23 m that covers the whole pinnacle in one go. Lobsters, barracudas, turtles, and dense shoals live on it, with the occasional shark passing by.
Iuias (12–25m)
Canyons and caves like Pedras Secas, but deeper (12 to 25 m), farther offshore, and exposed to current, which means only experienced divers go. Sharks are seen here more often than at almost any other site in Noronha, alongside a long list of reef species.
How to Dive in Fernando de Noronha: Rules, Fees, and Operators
Every tank dive inside the park must be run by an operator authorized by ICMBio, the federal agency that manages the marine park. Independent diving and unguided gear rentals are strictly prohibited. Authorized dive centers must verify your credentials, and for deeper dive locations, they will conduct a skill evaluation before approving your entry.
Two separate charges apply to every visitor (neither includes the dive itself):
Park entry ticket (ICMBio): R$ 384 for foreign visitors and R$ 192 for Brazilians, valid for 10 days, bought online or at the Visitor Center in Vila do Boldró.
Environmental Preservation Tax (TPA): In 2026, rates begin at R$ 105.79 for the first day and increase progressively, bringing the total for a seven-day stay to R$ 672.85.
Inside the national park, strict regulations apply: collecting flora, fauna, rocks, or shells is forbidden, as is touching or feeding marine life, bringing fishing gear, using selfie sticks, or landing on secondary islands. Validate your entry pass at the Porto de Santo Antônio kiosk before departing.
No month opens all the best dive spots in Fernando de Noronha at once: the archipelago has two diving seasons, one per coast.
The Mar de Dentro, sheltered from the swell, is at its best from July to December, which covers Cabeço da Sapata, Caverna da Sapata, and Pontal do Norte. Meanwhile, the Mar de Fora opens up from March to May, when Pedras Secas, Iuias, and Cabeço Submarino are reliably diveable.
Water visibility is generally best from August to December, when the sea is calmest. Water temperature stays around 26°C all year, so a thin wetsuit is enough. If your dates are fixed, choose the coast that works in that window.
Frequently Asked Questions About Diving in Fernando de Noronha
Do you need a certification to dive in Fernando de Noronha?
No. Discovery dives (batismo) allow uncertified divers to dive with an instructor at sites like Ressurreta and Cagarras Rasa. Diving other sites independently requires an open water certification, obtainable on the island.
Which are the best dive sites in Fernando de Noronha for beginners?
Ressurreta (8–12 m), Ilha do Meio (15 m), Cagarras Rasa (22 m), Buraco do Inferno (15 m), and the shallow half of Cabeço das Cordas (17 m). All are sheltered or shallow enough to give you a long, calm dive.
Can anyone dive the Corveta Ipiranga V17 wreck?
No. Resting at 62 m, Corveta Ipiranga V17 exceeds recreational limits and requires deep or technical certification. Operators review diver experience beforehand, so dives must be booked in advance.
Is snorkeling an alternative to scuba diving in Fernando de Noronha?
Yes. In fact, most travelers opt for snorkeling or free diving (around 75%) rather than scuba diving with tanks (about 40%). For the best conditions, Fernando de Noronha snorkeling is ideal in the sheltered inner sea between June and December, granting access to the same vibrant reefs featured in shallow dive itineraries.
Diving Noronha’s Best Sites with PlanetaEXO
Now that you know the best dive sites in Fernando de Noronha by depth, coast, and level, the next step is matching them to your dates and your certification.
PlanetaEXO is an ecotourism platform specializing in Fernando de Noronha tours. By partnering with licensed local operators across the island, we ensure all your dives are led by fully authorized teams. From selecting the right certification course to arranging the ideal dive count, we take care of all the logistics for your journey. Contact us now!
A retired professor from Slovenia, a husband with a camera, and six days across Barreirinhas, Atins, and Santo Amaro, told in Maja’s own words
Maja Žumer, 73, spent her career teaching information science at the University of Ljubljana, in Slovenia. Though officially retired for a year, she remains connected to a research program—the very reason a conference in São Paulo brought Brazil back onto her schedule in 2026.
This was not Maja’s first visit to Brazil, but it was her first time seeing Lençóis’ otherworldly dunes in person. She had been dreaming of Lençóis Maranhenses National Park for 15 years. After a failed attempt in the past, she finally made the journey alongside her husband, Slobodan Žumer, a passionate photographer.
In August 2026, the couple followed the Lençóis Maranhenses Full Itinerary, which links the park’s three main bases (Barreirinhas, Atins, and Santo Amaro) by road, river, and 4×4, organized by PlanetaEXO with local guides. This is her story. Check it out below!
Fifteen years, one failed attempt, and a now-or-never trip
It all began with a family conversation. About 15 years ago, Maja’s daughter-in-law came home with a discovery: a place in Brazil called Lençóis Maranhenses. Maja instantly fell in love with the idea, but the distance felt like a hurdle.
The first chance came 10 years ago, with a conference in Rio de Janeiro. She looked everywhere for an agent who could organize the trip but couldn’t find one, and traveling alone made it harder. So the plan changed to Iguazu Falls. “It was lovely, I have to admit,” she said, “but it was not Lençóis.”
When a second conference came up in São Paulo this year, the decision was simple: “It’s now or never.” Maja reached out to several agencies, but PlanetaEXO stood out. “PlanetaEXO was the only one who responded immediately, was totally responsive, and answered all my questions,” she recalled.
Looking back, the verdict is clear: “This was probably my last chance. And it worked perfectly.”
A unique destination even seasoned travelers haven’t heard of
Maja has traveled all over the world, including Argentina, Mexico, Guatemala, and the Sahara. Lençóis still felt completely unique.
“I can say this is quite exceptional,” she said. “Nothing is like it. Even other deserts cannot compare, because of the color, and in combination with the water, of course,” she praised.
What surprised her back home is how few people know Lençóis Maranhenses. “When I mention it to people, even those who travel a lot and have been to Brazil many times, they haven’t heard of it,” she commented, highlighting the uniqueness of the national park.
Driving up the dunes felt like driving through snow
Although 15 years of seeing photographs set high expectations, Maja and Slobodan found that pictures couldn’t capture the authentic beauty of Lençóis Maranhenses. The first 4×4 ride, in particular, stuck with her. How could a sandy landscape look so much like a winter scene?
“It’s like driving in snow, and I love to ski, so it’s really something very, very positive for me,” she marveled, fascinated by the scale as well. “Of course I knew it’s a huge area, but I wasn’t fully aware you could see so far and that it changed all the time.”
A different landscape every hour and a happy husband with a camera
The couple explored Lençóis Maranhenses National Park for six days. Never once did the view repeat itself.“It was always something different. The view was different; the light was different. It was never, never boring,” Maja said. With good weather on their side, the time of day did the rest: “Noon is quite different from afternoon, or morning, or sunset.”
The texture of the dunes shifted, too. For a photography lover like Slobodan, Lençóis was a “paradise for photographers.” According to Maja, he was over the moon—something the guides noticed.
“They would always stop for photos. We’d just signal, and they would stop immediately,” she remembered. “Even if we didn’t signal, when they saw my husband trying to take a photo, they would slow down immediately.”
The full itinerary strings together lagoon circuits from all three bases: Lagoa Azul (Barreirinhas); Ponta do Mangue and Canto do Atins (Atins); and Lagoa do Junco and Lagoa do Reflexo (Santo Amaro).
Maja loved them all, and one detail stood out: the temperature. “I was surprised how warm the water is,” she said. “Maybe it’s again this association with snow.”
Crowds were never a problem either. The guides took the couple to some lagoons where they were completely alone and to others with more people, but never overcrowded. “We always had our 10 meters of beach to ourselves. The guides really did a good job when it came to choosing the lagoons and the views.”
Three bases, one river, and never in a rush
Maja and Slobodan visited Barreirinhas, took the speedboat along the Preguiças River to Atins, and had a great time in Santo Amaro. None of it was physically demanding.
“There was hardly any walking anyway. Although we are older, we are still quite fit. We both still ski. Physically, it was very easy and relaxing, and there was enough time,” she explained, saying that she found the experience quite effortless and rewarding.
That was one of the things she liked the most. “We were never rushing, and we always knew in advance how much time we had at each spot. Everything went very smoothly.”
The organization of the itinerary worked really well for them, since the guides always presented the next day’s schedule the previous afternoon. For Maja, this was a huge help. “Otherwise, we would have to look back and think, ‘Do I remember it right or not?’ So it was wonderful.”
Smiling hosts, clean pousadas, and a first taste of caju
Away from the dunes, what Maja noticed first was the mood. “People are always in a good mood, always smiling. You don’t see long faces,” she stated with a smile of her own. “The whole atmosphere is nice.”
At restaurants, staff helped with the language and tried their best. At pousadas, the hosts made sure the couple was comfortable and that everything was running smoothly.
All of their accommodations were booked through PlanetaEXO as well, and every stay exceeded expectations. While each place had its own distinct character—some being more laid-back than others—all proved to be “very nice, clean, and comfortable. We had no problems whatsoever,” as Maja noted.
At the table, the couple ate fish, meat, and, of course, rice and beans. The novelty was caju, the fruit of the cashew tree, which she tried in a drink and found very interesting and authentic—just like everything else in Lençóis Maranhenses. “Everything was delicious.”
In Lençóis, Maja never gave it a second thought. The couple walked around Atins in their free time, and even after dark, she was not concerned. “We always felt safe,” she stated.
São Paulo and Rio are different, she admits, but that wasn’t surprising. “All big cities are like that. You have to take precautions and not do stupid things. I’m not squeamish about that. I’ve been to so many places.”
Drawing on her experience, Maja recommends one thing to any traveler: common sense.
Lençóis in three words and Maja’s next destination
We asked Maja to describe the trip in three words: Lovely. Overwhelming, “but in a good sense, because all the senses are aroused by this lovely landscape.” And total joy.
Her advice for anyone considering Lençóis Maranhenses or Brazil is simple: “Just do it as soon as possible. Don’t hesitate.”
Realistically, Maja isn’t sure there will be another trip to Brazil, but the list is already there. Slobodan loved his past trips to Manaus and the Amazon, so Maja would like to visit those places too, as well as southern Brazil.
After all, Lençóis already proved that plans can surprise you. “Ten years ago, I never knew I would be coming back,” she said. “So who knows? I would never say no to it.”
Visiting Lençóis Maranhenses with PlanetaEXO
Now that you’ve seen the park through Maja’s eyes—dunes that feel like fresh snow, lagoons warm enough to linger in, and days that never feel rushed—you know it’s worth the wait.
PlanetaEXO is an ecotourism platform specializing in Lençóis Maranhenses tours. Working alongside experienced local guides and operators, we handle all the logistics so you can focus on the dunes. Contact us now!
Temperature, acidity, current speed, density, and chemistry: what science says about the Meeting of Waters, the two rivers behind it, its place in Brazilian culture, and the trips that take you there
Just east of Manaus, the dark, tea-colored Rio Negro meets the sandy-brown Solimões River. Instead of blending, the two flow side by side in the same channel, split by a sharp line you can see from a boat, from a plane and, according to NASA, even from space. This is the Meeting of Waters (in Portuguese, Encontro das Águas).
More than a postcard, it’s a phenomenon hydrologists have measured for decades, poets have written about, and both the city of Manaus and the state of Amazonas put on their coats of arms. Want to know why these two rivers refuse to mix, and where you can see them for yourself?
PlanetaEXO, an ecotourism platform specializing in Amazon Rainforest tours in Brazil, has put together this guide so you can understand everything about this phenomenon. Check it out below!
What is the Meeting of Waters?
The Meeting of Waters is the confluence of the Rio Negro and the Solimões River on the eastern edge of Manaus, the capital of the state of Amazonas and gateway to the Amazon Rainforest. Where they meet, the combined channel is about 5 to 5.5 km (3.1 to 3.4 miles) wide, according to a study published in 2018 in the journal Comptes Rendus Geoscience.
What makes it famous is the boundary. On one side, the water is almost black; on the other, it’s the color of milky coffee. NASA’s Earth Observatory has photographed the line from orbit and describes it as visible “from space and from the water surface itself.”
In Brazil, the Meeting of the Waters is so tied to the region’s identity that it gave its name to the state’s public TV station (TV Encontro das Águas) and to a music series at the Teatro Amazonas. For travelers exploring the Amazon River, it’s usually the first stop out of Manaus.
Although often cited as 6 km, research in Comptes Rendus Geoscience shows the Negro and Solimões flow side-by-side unmixed for 50 to 100 km downstream. A 2009 study in Hydrological Processes notes they mix gradually, with the distance varying by season and river volume.
The explanation isn’t one single factor. The Rio Negro and the Solimões differ in five measurable ways at once (temperature, acidity, speed, density, and chemistry). Together, those differences slow the mixing down for dozens of kilometers.
Temperature
The Rio Negro is slightly warmer. Researchers have measured 30.3°C (86.5°F) in the Negro and 29.6°C (85.3°F) in the Solimões at low water (October 2014) and 29°C (84.2°F) vs 28°C(82.4°F) at high water (April–May 2015).
Because warmer water is lighter and colder water is heavier, this temperature difference influences the flow of the currents and directly impacts the density of both rivers.
Acidity (pH)
The Comptes Rendus Geoscience study recorded a pH of 5.0 to 5.6 in the Negro and 6.7 to 6.9 in the Solimões, while the 1997 HYBAM program survey found 5.5 vs 7.0. Because pH is a logarithmic scale, a pH of 5.5 means water is roughly 30 times more acidic than water at pH 7.0. In other words, the Rio Negro is clearly more acidic.
The acidity comes from the forest itself. As leaves and plant matter decompose in the flooded forests and swamps along the Negro, they release humic acids into the water—the same compounds that give it its dark color.
Researchers from Brazil’s National Institute of Amazonian Research (INPA) note that blackwater rivers in the Amazon typically have a pH between 4 and 5, while whitewater rivers like the Solimões are close to neutral.
Fun fact: that acidity also helps keep insects away from the riverbanks, which is why adventurers exploring the Rio Negro area are less troubled by mosquitoes.
Current speed
At the confluence, the average speeds are 0.37 to 0.38 m/s (about 1.4 km/h) in the Negro against 1.42 to 1.65 m/s (about 5 to 6 km/h) in the Solimões, with local peaks of up to 2.6 m/s. That makes the Solimões roughly four times faster.
It also carries far more water. According to a study published in Geosciences, the Solimões has a mean discharge of about 103,000 m³/s, while the Negro averages about 28,400 m³/s—just over a quarter as much.
Driven by this speed gap, the density contrast described below, and the shear force generated along the boundary, the interface dividing the two currents tilts rather than standing vertically.
Density
The Solimões River is denser for two reasons: it is slightly cooler, and it is loaded with sediment washed down from the Andes, where it begins.
Due to the higher density, its waters slide under those of the Negro, which causes mixing to start close to the riverbed, while the surface line stays sharp for much longer.
Chemical composition
In the 1950s, the German limnologist Harald Sioli sorted Amazonian rivers into three types: whitewater, blackwater, and clearwater. The Meeting of Waters brings together the two extremes of that system.
Solimões (whitewater): born in the Andes, it carries nutrient-rich sediment and water that is rich in carbonates and calcium.
Rio Negro (blackwater): it drains the ancient Guiana Shield and its white-sand soils, which release very little sediment or minerals.
Dissolved minerals: electrical conductivity, a measure of dissolved salts, is about 8 µS/cm in the Negro vs. 80 µS/cm in the Solimões (ten times higher).
Organic matter: the Negro has more than twice as much dissolved organic carbon as the Solimões. Those humic substances stain the water the color of strong tea.
Seasons and droughts
The line isn’t fixed. Studies found that as the Solimões rises from November onward, it expands and pushes the Negro’s blackwater toward the left bank; by January and February, whitewater covers both banks downstream. Additionally, the position and width of the mixing zone change with how much water each river carries.
Extreme droughts can blur it, too. On October 4, 2024, the Rio Negro at Manaus dropped to 12.66 m, a new record low since measurements began in 1902, according to Brazil’s Geological Survey (SGB). The river kept falling to 12.11 m, making the contrast difficult to see.
The Rio Negro rises in the rainforest of eastern Colombia, where its headwaters are linked to the Orinoco basin by the Casiquiare channel. It runs for about 2,250 km (1,370 km of them in Brazil).
The Wildlife Conservation Society’s Aguas Amazónicas initiative describes it as the only large blackwater river in the Amazon basin, carrying 13 to 14% of the Amazon’s discharge.
About 40 km upstream of Manaus, the Negro spreads around more than 400 islands in Anavilhanas National Park, one of the largest river archipelagos in the world.
The Solimões is the name Brazilians give to the upper Amazon, from the border with Peru down to its meeting with the Negro. It’s born in the Peruvian Andes, flowing for about 1,600 km in Brazil through a floodplain up to 80 km wide. The basin covers more than 2.1 million km².
The Andean sediment the Solimões River carries is what gives it its creamy-brown color—and what makes its floodplains, the várzeas, some of the most fertile land in the Amazon.
Two rivers that don’t mix were bound to inspire art. In an entry dated September 5, 1865, the travel journal kept by Swiss naturalist Louis Agassiz and his wife, Elizabeth, records that local Indigenous people called the Solimões the “living” river and the Negro the “dead” one.
Artists have returned to it ever since. A few examples include the Teatro Amazonas stage curtain (1894), painted by Crispim do Amaral; Fernando Sabino’s collection of crônicas (short essays), “O Encontro das Águas” (1977); and the song “Encontro das Águas” (1993), by Jorge Vercillo and Jota Maranhão.
The Meeting of Waters is so deeply rooted in Amazonian history and culture that it also appears on the coats of arms of the state of Amazonas (1897) and the city of Manaus (1906).
PlanetaEXO trips that include the Meeting of Waters
Do you want to see the Negro and Solimões rivers flowing side by side with your own eyes? PlanetaEXO offers several Amazon tours that include the Meeting of Waters. See below!
Ready to see the Meeting of Waters? Plan your Amazon trip with PlanetaEXO!
Now that you know why the Rio Negro and the Solimões run side by side instead of blending, it’s time to see the line for yourself!
PlanetaEXO is an ecotourism platform specializing in adventure tours in Brazil. Working with the best local operators in the Amazon, our talented team is here to help with hassle-free vacation planning and tailor-made experiences. Contact us now!
Where the falls are, how to get there, when to go, what a ticket covers on each side of the border, and how many days the trip actually takes.
Iguazu Falls is a system of 275 separate drops spread across nearly 2,700 meters of the Iguazu River, on the border between Brazil and Argentina, falling from a height of up to 80 meters. UNESCO inscribed the Argentine park in 1984 and the Brazilian park in 1986. Bigger than Niagara, the two protect the largest surviving block of Interior Atlantic Forest anywhere.
The border splits the falls unevenly. Roughly 80% of the cascades sit on the Argentine side and about 20% on the Brazilian side—which is exactly why Brazil gives you the view. Standing along the platform’s outer rim, you can see the entire cascading network open up before you all at once.
Photo: Marina Zvada
PlanetaEXO, an ecotourism company specializing in Iguazu Falls tours, has put together this travel guide to help you plan every stage of the trip, with the Brazilian side as your base and the Argentine side as the day you add to it. Check it out below!
Iguazu Falls sits on the Iguazu River at the point where Brazil and Argentina meet, about 25 kilometers upstream from where the Iguazu empties into the Paraná.
On the Brazilian side, the gateway city is Foz do Iguaçu, in the far west of Paraná state. On the Argentine side, it is Puerto Iguazú, in Misiones province. Paraguay’s Ciudad del Este sits across the Paraná from both, which is why the area is known as the Triple Frontier.
Foz do Iguaçu is a city with 285,415 residents, according to the 2022 Census, which means it offers everything a tourist needs: hotels, restaurants, hospitals, and an airport.
One naming note that saves confusion when you start booking. The Brazilian park is Parque Nacional do Iguaçu, and the Argentine one is Parque Nacional Iguazú. In other languages, it’s common to find different spellings, like Iguaçu, Iguazú, and Iguassu.
Here is a map of Iguazu Falls National Park and the border region, with Foz do Iguaçu, Puerto Iguazú, and Ciudad del Este all in frame:
How to get to Iguazu Falls
By plane
There are two Iguazu Falls airports, one in each country. On the Brazilian side, it is Foz do Iguaçu/Cataratas International (IGU), about 13 kilometers from the city center and, usefully, right on the road to the national park, whose entrance is roughly 10 minutes away.
There are daily flights from Brazilian cities, such as São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, Brasília, Curitiba, Porto Alegre, and Recife. The only direct international flight connects Foz do Iguaçu to Santiago do Chile (SCL) a few times a week.
Argentina has its own airport, Cataratas del Iguazú International (IGR), with flights from Buenos Aires, making an open-jaw route into one country and out of the other entirely feasible.
By car and bus
Driving is straightforward. Foz do Iguaçu connects to the rest of Paraná by the BR-277, a paved federal highway, and the trip from Curitiba takes about 9 hours over 640 kilometers.
Rental cars are available at the airport. Inside the national park, you park at the Visitor Center and switch to the park’s own buses, which are included in the ticket. Private vehicles do not continue to the falls.
Locally, there are municipal buses that go from the city-center terminal to the park entrance, passing the airport and the Parque das Aves on the way. To make things easier and more comfortable, most travelers use a hotel transfer, a taxi, or a guided tour.
Crossing to the Argentine side
The Argentine park is reached by crossing the Tancredo Neves Bridge to Puerto Iguazú, then driving 17 kilometers to that park’s entrance—about 45 minutes to an hour from Foz do Iguaçu hotels, plus whatever the border queue costs you.
Photo: NidoHuebl
When is the best time to visit Iguazu Falls?
There is no bad month. The falls run all year, and both parks are open 365 days. The weather in Foz do Iguaçu is humid subtropical with distinct seasons.
Summer (December to March) is hot and wet, with highs clearing 32°C and the heaviest rain in January and February, which is also what makes the flow most powerful. Winter (June to August) is dry and clear, between about 10°C and 23°C.
The best time to visit Iguazu Falls is the shoulder season, roughly March to May or August to October. You get warm days without February’s heat, water levels still fed by the summer rains, and none of the January or July crowding.
Regardless of the season, try to avoid scheduling your trip during Brazilian or Argentine national holidays, as travelers from both nations flock to the park during these periods.
One thing no monthly average captures: extreme flow events. When upstream rain raises the Iguazu River high above baseline, authorities temporarily close the closest boardwalks on both sides for safety. Most main trails and vistas stay open, but it’s worth checking official updates on the day of your visit. In the biggest floods, the Argentine park can close the Devil’s Throat walkway for weeks and even dismantle sections of it.
The two national parks: access, tickets, and rules
Since the cascades straddle an international border, distinct management teams operate each park under separate government mandates. As a result, a ticket bought on one side will not grant access to the other.
Overlooking this detail remains one of the most common mistakes visitors commit. Plan on securing individual entry for each location, with both sites maintaining their own operating hours, admission rates, and visitor guidelines.
Iguaçu National Park (Brazil)
Covering 169,695 hectares of Paraná state, the Brazilian park was created in 1939, expanded in 1944 and 1981, and designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1986. Managed by ICMBio, its visitor services are operated under concession by Urbia Cataratas.
Entry in 2026 costs R$ 134 for foreign visitors and R$ 121 for Brazilians and Mercosur citizens, with a R$ 26 community pass for residents of the 14 surrounding municipalities. Prices may change, so confirm the current rates on official channels before you go.
Entry hours run from 9 AM to 4 PM on weekdays and open half an hour earlier, at 8:30 AM, on weekends and holidays. Once inside, you can stay until 5:30 PM regardless of when you entered.
Tickets are sold preferentially online at the Iguaçu National Park’s official website. Booking a date and time slot when you buy is strongly recommended in high season.
Photo: hansgertbroeder
Iguazú National Park (Argentina)
The Argentine park covers 67,000 hectares in Misiones. Created in 1934 and designated by UNESCO in 1984, it is managed by the Administración de Parques Nacionales alongside concessionaire Iguazú Argentina.
Operating hours run daily from 8 AM to 6 PM (last entry at 4:30 PM). Admission fees are set in Argentine pesos using a tiered structure based on nationality, with international tourists charged the standard full rate.
One Argentine rule is worth planning around: a second consecutive day costs 50% of the original fee, provided you get your ticket validated before leaving on day one, within 72 hours.
What to do in Iguazu Falls
Beyond the main half-day walkway, visiting Iguazu Falls in Brazil offers exhilarating boat tours, jungle paths, sunrise and night access, a massive hydroelectric dam, and a three-nation landmark. See some activities below!
Photo: Fermin Rodriguez Penelas
The Cataratas Trail and the Devil’s Throat viewpoint
Trilha das Cataratas is a 1.4-kilometer path along the canyon rim that delivers, in sequence, the panorama the Brazilian side is famous for: the falls opening up across the gorge, closer and louder at every bend.
The trail leads to the Devil’s Throat walkway over the river, facing the main drop, ending with a panoramic elevator to Porto Canoas. The route is paved, step-free, and fully accessible, with internal buses connecting directly to the elevator.
Photo: Belmond Hotel das Cataratas
Macuco Safari
A top choice for travelers visiting Iguazu Falls in Brazil, the thrilling Macuco Safari boat tour brings you right beneath the cascading waters.
It runs in three stages: 2 kilometers through the forest in an electric vehicle, a 600-meter guided walk with a bilingual guide, and then the boat itself—roughly 25 to 30 minutes on the Iguazu River, ending directly beneath the falls.
Plan for two hours total and expect to get soaked. Boats depart every 20 minutes without advance booking, but park entry is separate. Dry bags are provided for cameras and phones; everything else you are wearing is going to get wet, so bring a change of clothes.
Photo: Christian Edelmann
Hiking trails
Most visitors never leave the main walkway, which means the rest of the park is quiet. For those seeking an immersive nature experience, the Poço Preto trail stretches 9.6 km each way through the heart of the Atlantic Forest down to the Iguazu River. Walkable or bikeable, it provides your best opportunity to spot local wildlife beyond the coatis.
The shorter ones are also worth the visit: Caminho das Bananeiras (1.3 km to a riverbank deck), Circuito São João (1.9 km past waterfalls and an old power station), and Trilha da Canafístula (2.2 km, the shadiest).
Photo: Daniel Miller
Sunrise, sunset, and the full moon
For visitors seeking the top value in Foz do Iguaçu, securing one of the park’s limited special-hours experiences is unmatched.
Early risers can take the sunrise tour to access the walkway prior to public opening hours, with breakfast included. Alternatively, the sunset option grants exclusive late-day entry, with the option to include a stargazing session.
The full moon tour runs roughly five nights monthly after dark, offering a view of a moonbow (a night rainbow in the spray). Guests at the Belmond Hotel das Cataratas, the only hotel inside Iguaçu National Park, enjoy exclusive walkway access before and after public hours.
Across the road from the park entrance, Parque das Aves is the largest bird park in Latin America and a serious conservation institution rather than a roadside attraction. Opened in 1994 across 16 hectares of forest, it holds more than 1,300 birds from over 150 species, with a focus on threatened Atlantic Forest species and rescued animals that cannot be returned to the wild.
What makes it work is the design: walk-through aviaries let you stand inside the enclosure with toucans, macaws, and hummingbirds moving around you.
Plan for roughly two hours to explore Parque das Aves. Since it lies just five minutes from the main park entrance, combining it with a morning at the falls is effortless, making it the top activity in Foz do Iguaçu for families traveling with kids.
Photo: Luriko Yamaguchi
Photo: Victor Barbosa
The Argentine side
The Argentine park is where you walk among the falls rather than opposite them, and it takes a full day. Here is what a ticket gets you:
Circuito Superior: 1,755 meters along the tops of the cascades, completely step-free, about an hour.
Circuito Inferior: 2,900 meters descending toward the river, roughly 90 minutes, with access to the pier for the Argentine boat rides.
Tren Ecológico de la Selva: included in the ticket. First departure at 8:30 AM, every 30 minutes, last service toward the Devil’s Throat station at 3:30 PM.
Devil’s Throat walkway: reached by that train, crossing the upper Iguazu River to the lip of the main drop. It is the first walkway to close when the river runs high.
Sendero Verde and Sendero Macuco: two forest trails within Iguazú National Park, both walkable without a guide.
Yvyrá Retá visitor center and Yaguareté Territory: the park’s exhibits, the second one on jaguar conservation.
Photo: Ignacio Saenz Valiente
Beyond the falls: Itaipu and the Three Borders Landmark
Beyond the falls, Foz do Iguaçu is famous for the monumental Itaipu Dam. Boasting an installed capacity of 14,000 MW from 20 generating units, it established an annual world record of 103.1 million MWh in 2016 and surpassed 3 billion MWh generated since 1984.
Visitors can take the Itaipu Panorâmica double-decker bus tour to the observation decks (around 2.5 hours) or opt for the Itaipu Especial to step inside the plant to view the control room and turbines.
Another option is the Three Borders Landmark (Marco das Três Fronteiras), which stands at the exact confluence of the Iguazu and Paraná rivers, where Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay meet—three countries visible from one spot, each with its own obelisk. It opens Tuesday to Sunday from 2 PM to 9 PM, with cultural performances from 6:15 PM.
Photo: jimfeng
What to pack
When you’re visiting Iguazu Falls in Brazil or Argentina, getting wet is part of the experience. The list below covers both sides of the border and the full range of seasons:
Rain jacket or poncho (the park sells them, but it’s good to bring your own).
Quick-dry clothing and a full change of clothes for Macuco Safari days.
Comfortable walking shoes with grip, plus sandals or shoes that can get wet.
Waterproof phone case or dry bag.
Sunscreen and a hat (the walkways are long and largely unshaded).
Insect repellent.
Refillable water bottle.
Light layers for June to August, when lows reach 10°C.
Photo ID or passport for the Argentine side (physical document, not a photo on your phone).
Cash (reais for Brazil and pesos for Argentina).
How many days in Iguazu Falls do you need?
For most travelers, a stay of three days and two nights hits the sweet spot. This allows a full day to explore the Argentine side, half a day for the Brazilian side, and a comfortable buffer for flight schedules to prevent unexpected delays from interfering with your itinerary.
While two days is a tight squeeze, it is doable—just barely. Completing the Brazilian walkway takes about two hours, easily fitting onto a single day alongside Parque das Aves or the Macuco Safari. However, adding the Argentine side to a two-day trip requires rushing through border crossings, nearly 7 kilometers of walking, and tight return schedules, making the experience feel overly rushed despite seeing the falls.
Four or five days is where the trip opens up. The extra time buys the Poço Preto trail, Itaipu, the Three Borders Landmark at sunset, a second Argentine day, and—if the calendar cooperates—the full moon tour. It also means you can move a plan when the weather or the river does not cooperate, which at Iguazu is worth more than it sounds.
Now that you know how to get there, when to go, what each ticket covers, and how many days the trip takes, the only thing left is to choose your itinerary.
PlanetaEXO is an ecotourism platform specializing in Iguazu Falls tours. Working with the best local operators in Foz do Iguaçu, we handle transfers, tickets on both sides of the border, and timing, so all you have to do is enjoy yourself. Contact us now!
Its founder, its pioneering method, its results with jaguars and maned wolves, and how you can see and support Onçafari’s work in Brazil
Onçafari is a Brazilian nonprofit that protects jaguars, maned wolves, and the habitats they share. It was born in 2011 on a ranch in the Pantanal, where jaguars were seen only a few times a year. Today, it runs 20 conservation bases in 4 Brazilian biomes.
Its model comes from Africa: when travelers pay to see wildlife, local people gain a reason to protect it. The idea took its founder, a former racing driver, all the way to Davos. Want to find out how this approach to wildlife conservation in Brazil works?
PlanetaEXO, an ecotourism platform specializing in Pantanal jaguar tours, has put together this list of 10 facts about Onçafari. Check it out below!
1. Animal habituation in Brazil
Onçafari’s method was adapted from South Africa, specifically from a case that occurred in Londolozi, where a landowner spent 3 years following a leopard until it grew accustomed to cars. Her cubs inherited this comfort, turning the reserve into a premier site for daily leopard sightings.
This technique, called habituation, was brought to Brazil as a pilot project in the Pantanal by Onçafari and developed with CENAP/ICMBio, the federal center for carnivore research. The goal: jaguars learn that safari vehicles are not a threat and carry on with their routine in plain view.
Achieving this requires great patience. As reported by National Geographic Brasil, researchers initially stayed over 200 meters away. It took one biologist 9 months to safely close the gap to 12 meters. The effort pays off long-term, as mothers pass this habituation to their offspring.
Habituation is not domestication. The animals stay fully wild and free, get no food or reward from people, and simply stop reacting to the cars. In August 2018, Onçafari began applying the same method to maned wolves at Pousada Trijunção.
2. The founder is a former racing driver
Before tracking jaguars, Mario Haberfeld raced cars. In 1998, he won the British Formula 3 title, raced in Formula 3000 until 2002, and moved to Champ Car in 2003.
Eventually, Haberfeld turned to wildlife. In August 2011, he launched Onçafari at the Caiman Ecological Refuge, a 53,000-hectare ranch and lodge near Miranda, in the Southern Pantanal. The name joins onça (Portuguese for jaguar) with safari.
The first milestones came quickly. In October 2011, the team fitted its first GPS collar on a female jaguar named Chuva. In May 2013, it found its first den, with the 3 cubs of a female named Esperança. By April 2018, Caiman had recorded its 100th jaguar.
3. Onçafari’s founder was named Social Innovator of the Year in Davos
On January 20, 2026, Mario Haberfeld was named Social Innovator of the Year at the World Economic Forum’s Annual Meeting in Davos, Switzerland. He was 1 of 21 global leaders honored by the Schwab Foundation for Social Entrepreneurship.
In his speech, Haberfeld pointed out that five of the ten global risks in the forum’s latest report are environmental. A few months earlier, he had won Brazil’s Prêmio Empreendedor Social 2025, run by Folha de S. Paulo with the Schwab Foundation.
Other recognition came before. In June 2025, Haberfeld received the Unsung Hero award from the Latin American Travel Association (LATA) in London.
4. Onçafari works in 4 of Brazil’s 6 biomes
After the Pantanal, the project reached the Atlantic Forest in 2016, the Amazon in 2017, and the Cerrado in 2018. Its Cerrado base is Pousada Trijunção, on the spot where the states of Bahia, Goiás, and Minas Gerais meet.
Its mission is to conserve Brazilian biodiversity by protecting natural areas and supporting local communities. In practice, that means large ecological corridors that reconnect fragmented habitats and run from 20 conservation bases, according to Haberfeld’s 2026 speech in Davos.
The work also crosses borders. Through the Jaguar Rivers initiative, Onçafari partners with organizations in Argentina, Paraguay, and Bolivia, and it plans to expand to 2 more Brazilian biomes: the Pampa and the Caatinga.
5. Ecotourism pays for the conservation work
Ecotourism is the backbone of Onçafari. A jaguar that travelers can see is worth far more alive than the cattle it might take, so ranchers gain a reason to protect it.
According to Onçafari, 100% of Caiman guests saw at least one jaguar over a 2-year period, and lodge occupancy has grown 580% since 2011. A 2017 study estimated that jaguar tourism in the Northern Pantanal brings in US$6.8 million a year, against about US$121,500 in cattle losses.
That income creates jobs and new careers. Some ranch workers who once saw jaguars as pests now work as guides—a clear example of how ecotourism in Brazil can turn a threatened predator into a local asset.
6. You can join Onçafari’s safaris at Caiman and Pousada Trijunção
Onçafari’s own team runs safaris at only 2 lodges: the Caiman Ecological Refuge, in the Pantanal, and Pousada Trijunção, in the Cerrado. PlanetaEXO offers trips to both, with full board and guided wildlife activities in the same areas where the project’s researchers work.
The Pantanal Luxury Safari at Caiman Ecological Refuge is a 4-day, 3-night trip from Campo Grande, 236 km away by private transfer. Game drives run early in the morning and late in the afternoon, and you can add a safari with the Onçafari team as an optional extra. The best time to go is May to October, in the dry season.
On Pousada Trijunção: Brazil’s Cerrado Tour, a 5-day, 4-night trip, Onçafari is part of the itinerary. On day 3, you head out before dawn with the Onçafari team to look for maned wolves, then visit Grande Sertão Veredas National Park (230,000 hectares). As with any wild animal, sightings can’t be guaranteed, but your chances are very good.
7. Onçafari works on 7 other fronts beyond ecotourism
Ecotourism is only one of Onçafari’s eight fronts. Each of the others tackles a different gap in conservation:
Science: using self-detaching GPS/VHF collars and camera traps, researchers have fitted 50 collars and sampled 32 jaguars to date.
Education: talks for communities, companies, and schools, plus field support for the BBC documentary Jaguars: Brazil’s Super Cats, narrated by David Attenborough.
Reintroduction: 3 rehabilitation centers with 7 enclosures in the Amazon and the Pantanal.
Social: craft workshops, agroecological gardens, and work with about 100 Boe Bororo people in the Perigara Indigenous Territory.
Forests: 4 protected areas covering more than 66,000 hectares, created with land from donors.
Fire prevention: equipment and training for fire brigades, plus Brazil’s second integrated fire management plan on private land.
Advocacy: stronger environmental laws, including a refuge that protects 200 km of the São Benedito River, and the anti-trafficking campaign Sou Amigo da Fauna.
8. Jaguars and maned wolves are Onçafari’s target species
Jaguar
The jaguar (Panthera onca) is the largest cat in the Americas and the third largest in the world, after the tiger and the lion. According to Onçafari, Brazil holds about 50% of the remaining jaguars, with the Pantanal holding the highest densities on Earth.
The jaguar conservation status changes with the scale. The IUCN lists the species as Near Threatened, while Brazil lists it as Vulnerable. It has been extinct in the Pampa since 1952, and fewer than 300 remain in the Caatinga and the Atlantic Forest.
Since 2011, Onçafari has identified more than 300 jaguars and logged more than 3,400 sightings. At Caiman alone, the count went from the 50th recorded jaguar in 2016 to the 150th in 2020.
The maned wolf (Chrysocyon brachyurus) is South America’s largest wild canine—about 90 cm tall at the shoulder and up to 36 kg. It feeds heavily on the lobeira (wolf apple), spreading its seeds across the Cerrado. About 17,000 adults remain, more than 90% of them in Brazil.
At Trijunção, Onçafari fitted its first maned wolf collar in December 2018 and found its first den in 2019. With Brazil’s Environment Ministry, it also works to stop wolves from drowning in irrigation canals.
Other species
Onçafari also monitors 32 other mammals, including the puma, ocelot, tapir, giant otter, giant anteater, and marsh deer.
In 2018, the team documented Una, the first black jaguar identified near Trijunção, and in 2026, melanistic marsh deer, with Embrapa Pantanal.
9. Onçafari achieved a world first in jaguar reintroduction
Onçafari’s best-known result started with 2 orphans. Sisters Isa and Fera were rescued in 2014 and released in the Pantanal in 2016, becoming the world’s first jaguars successfully reintroduced into the wild. In 2018, Isa gave birth to Aurora, the first cub of a reintroduced jaguar.
The jaguar reintroduction program kept growing. In 2019, sisters Pandora and Vivara were released in the Amazon. Jatobazinho, a male treated at Onçafari’s center, was sent to Argentina and fathered the first jaguar cubs born in the wild in Iberá National Park in 70 years.
Another success: Esperança, one of the first jaguars the team followed, saw her great-grandcub Shiva born in 2018—proof that habituation lasts across generations.
10. You can adopt a jaguar or a maned wolf
One of the most direct ways to support Onçafari is to adopt an animal. Adopting a jaguar or a maned wolf lets you follow its life in the wild for 1 year while funding the research and protection work behind it.
Another option is the Amigo da Onça, a monthly contribution scheme starting at R$20. Additionally, every purchase made in their official web store directly funds the initiative. You can also donate via Pix, leave a gift in your will, or ask friends to donate instead of buying you a present.
Outside Brazil, Onçafari International accepts one-off and recurring donations and runs its own Adopt a Jaguar program.
Traveling helps as well: every guest at Caiman or Pousada Trijunção keeps the model running.
Now that you know how Onçafari turned jaguars and maned wolves into reasons to protect the land, it’s time to see them in the wild!
PlanetaEXO is an ecotourism platform specializing in Brazil wildlife tours. We work with the best local operators, with our team ready to help you create a tailor-made experience with hassle-free planning. Contact us now!
A British family and four days on a working cattle ranch on the Aquidauana River, told in Sally’s own words
Sally Heal, 48, is a teacher from a little village in the middle of England, though these days she spends most of her time training other teachers. Her daughter had been living in Chile for a year and had already visited Brazil with friends.
Seeking warmer weather during the Chilean winter, Sally, her husband, and their two young adult children (ages 20 and 22) picked Brazil. While Costa Rica was considered, higher expenses, complex flight routes, and rainy weather led them elsewhere. This marked their first journey to Brazil and second visit to South America.
The itinerary opened in Rio de Janeiro, which the whole family loved, and Ilha Grande, before a flight west to Campo Grande. The goal was to see wildlife, plant life, and the reality of what Brazil feels like outside of the cities. They almost traveled to the Amazon but ultimately chose the Pantanal, the wetland that spans 210,000 km² across Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul. Her husband had wanted it from the start.
The family spent four days of late August 2026 at Pousada Aguapé, a lodge on the banks of the Aquidauana River, on a Pantanal Tour from Campo Grande organized by PlanetaEXO and led by a local guide. This is her story. Check it out below!
A working cattle ranch, not a five-star hotel
Sally expected the lodge to be very simple. She was half right. “It was basic, but it was way bigger than I thought and way more comfortable,” she said. The shower was better than she had imagined, and the family had space outside the room to dry things off and sit in the shade.
Pousada Aguapé sits on a traditional cattle ranch that has belonged to the same family for more than 150 years, with 15 rooms, a swimming pool, and a hammock area. For Sally, the simplicity was the point. “I don’t want to go to the Pantanal and stay somewhere that feels like a five-star hotel, because I might as well just go to a five-star hotel somewhere else.”
What she wanted was the Pantanal in its purest form.“Having the armadillos walking through the restaurant, the birds landing on the deck whilst you’re eating, the toucans flying over your head, and the macaws nesting next to you whilst you’re in the pool… It was just brilliant.”
The ranch is still a working farm. Sally liked watching the pantaneiros (the local cowboys) “with their own individual saddles and the knives tucked in the back of their trousers,” completely at ease around the horses. It was definitely a different way of life, but it felt honest and almost poetic.
Sally’s first memory of Bruno, the family’s guide, has nothing to do with animals. They reached the lodge just in time for lunch, and he went to sit at a different table. “He didn’t assume that we would want to sit with him until we invited him to eat and talk with us. He was very respectful of the fact that it was our holiday, which I thought was lovely.”
Then came the wildlife and his eye for it. The first animal they saw was a greater rhea, the large flightless bird Brazilians call ema. Bruno identified it on the spot, down to the fact that it was a female. Every bird after that came with its species and, often, its age.
On the river, he never switched off and was always spotting animals. Sally was so impressed she asked him how he could even see these things. His answer was that he knew what he was looking for: just a little bit of movement. She puts a number on it. “We wouldn’t have seen 80% of what we’d seen if it hadn’t been for Bruno pointing them out.”
Bruno and the boat driver worked as a pair, maneuvering so everyone got the best view and the best photo. When they found howler monkeys, Rafael, from the lodge team, tried to imitate their call, which Sally’s son found hilarious. Bruno played along. “It’s an illness he has. We just have to humor him and let him make those sounds,” he joked.
The first boat trip began with a test of nerves: a caiman lying right in front of the boat. One member of the family (we promised not to say who) was terrified. The guides turned it into a running joke and into a lesson, since caimans want nothing to do with people. “All you need to do is go ‘shoo, shoo’ and walk towards them, and they run away,” Sally explained.
The sightings piled up from there. Toucans flew around the swimming pool, while armadillos, anteaters, rheas, and capybaras appeared in quantities Sally has never seen before.
One find stayed with her: a rhea egg, already empty, with the lizard that had eaten it still lying next to it. “It was just lying there, full and satiated, with an empty egg next to it,” she recalled. “It’s not nice, but that was kind of cool.”
Photo: Birger Strahl
The one animal that never showed up was the jaguar. The consolation came later, from a Hungarian family they befriended on the boat trips. They went on to the Northern Pantanal and sent Sally “the most amazing pictures and videos of jaguars, because they saw loads of them.”
Worth knowing: the best odds of seeing a jaguar are in the Northern Pantanal, while the South shines for ranch-country wildlife like the animals Sally saw. In both regions, the dry season, from July to October, concentrates the animals around the remaining water.
Sally had never been on a horse. “It was quite intimidating. And they gave me the biggest horse, and I’m only 5 foot 2.” She found out the reason later: it was the oldest and calmest horse on the ranch.
The ride turned into the family’s favorite activity. “I think that was our best day,” Sally said. The guide leading it was “brilliant, just very funny,” constantly nudging the horses a little faster for her son and daughter, “just to take them out of their comfort zone and have a little giggle with them.” Then the route went straight through the water.
Photo: Pousada Aguapé
What Sally values most is the view it gave her of the landscape. “You get close to the animals and close to the environment and feel like you were in it rather than in a car. There’s that sense of removal from what you’re experiencing, whereas on a horse it feels very different.”
There was also the sense of achievement: “At the end of it, I feel like I’ve done something I would never have done in the UK,” she reflected.
Caipirinhas, puddings, and six fruit tattoos
The food at the lodge was, in Sally’s word, “exceptional.” With two hungry grown-up children and “a husband who really loves his meat,” quantity mattered as much as quality, and the lodge delivered both. Dessert was the surprise: cakes and puddings unlike anything you get in the UK.
The language barrier never got in the way of a laugh. “They were interested in us; we were interested in them,” she said. “I would describe it as banter, but almost through mime rather than language.”
One night, Rosana, who works at the bar, let Sally take over and make caipirinhas for everyone. “We were dancing and singing, and it was just really funny.” There was a plan behind it, too. “I wanted to learn how to make them so that I could make them when I got home.”
The most unusual souvenir came from Rafael, another guide from the lodge. Noticing a temporary tattoo on his arm, the family asked him about it, prompting him to offer them matching ones. He applied them using a mix of charcoal and fruit juice that gradually washes off over several weeks. Sally got six. By the time we spoke, only one was left on the hand she had barely been washing. The reason for that is the next part of the story.
A broken finger and a team that didn’t panic
The accident happened in the least adventurous moment of the trip. After horse riding, hiking, and boat trips, Sally was playing volleyball with her son in the swimming pool when the ball “just caught me wrong.” Her finger was completely broken.
“Nobody could have foreseen it. It was nobody’s fault,” she noted. “You think about all the things we did, like horse riding and hiking, and any number of things could have happened. And it wasn’t. It was just a moment of relaxation.”
It happened far from everything. “We were quite remote in the Pantanal, in the middle of nowhere, really, and it could have been an absolute disaster.” The nearest hospital was about an hour away down a dirt road. The lodge manager drove Sally there, looked after her, and translated everything. Bruno also helped a great deal at the hospital. “Everyone was really calm as well. Nobody was panicking, which was really nice to see.”
Her children stayed at the lodge and carried on with the activities. “They’d had such a good time when I got back,” she said. “[The staff] made what could have been a nightmare into a very enjoyable day for my children and looked after me really, really well. So I was so grateful.”
The injury still cut the trip short. The plan had been a couple of days in São Paulo and then Iguazu Falls. Instead, Sally flew home early with her son, while her husband and daughter went back to Chile to go skiing.
Was Brazil safe? Sally’s honest answer
Before the trip, several people warned the family that Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo could be dangerous. That is not what Sally found. “I never felt in danger. I never felt uncomfortable. It was a surprise, but a pleasant one.”
She has a theory about why, and it says as much about the traveler as about the country. “When I travel, I always expect people to be warm and welcoming and kind. And I do think some of that is the way you behave as a guest in someone’s country. The way you behave often dictates how you are received.”
In the Pantanal, the warmth came with a sense of humor. “Even though you can’t speak the language, the staff there was so lovely at the lodge and so funny,” she praised, satisfied with the service her family received.
Sally’s tips for a first trip to the Pantanal
Her first tip was direct: “Go with PlanetaEXO.” Her reasons are practical, and so is the rest of her advice.
Book through someone who can reach the lodges
Booking the Pantanal from a computer in the UK was harder than the family expected. “You don’t really know what you’re looking for, you don’t speak the language, and you don’t really know how to contact the lodges, because I think a lot of them only work through travel companies.” Her daughter found PlanetaEXO online, a cancellation freed up a quadruple room, and the family booked only three to four weeks before arriving.
From there, communication did the rest. “I knew exactly what I was doing and exactly what to expect. I even knew what clothes to take.” When she mixed up a luggage rule she had read elsewhere (soft bags only, 15 kg maximum) and started to panic, one message from the PlanetaEXO team put her straight right away.
Travel with a guide who speaks your language
“He brought the Pantanal to life,” Sally said of Bruno. “I don’t think we would have got anywhere near as much out of it if we hadn’t had Bruno with us, and his English was excellent, which really helped.”
On this tour, a private English-speaking guide is included, on top of the Portuguese-speaking local guide provided by the lodge.
Get on a horse
Even if you have never ridden. Sally and her husband were beginners, and it was still their best day.
The ranch guides carefully ease beginners into riding and set a comfortable tempo; thanks to the horses’ gentle pace, guests can get remarkably close to wildlife.
Take it slow
Her last tip is the one she would give any first-timer. “Take your time and take it slow. Just let the nature wash over you rather than looking for stuff,” she recommended.
We asked Sally to describe the Pantanal in three words. She humorously set one condition first: “Without mentioning my broken finger.”
Exciting, “because it felt exciting while we were there.”Comfortable, “and I don’t just mean the beds were comfy. I mean, feeling instantly at home.” And funny. “We laughed a lot, with the people and with my family. It was good fun.”
Next: jaguars, Fernando de Noronha, and the falls she missed
Brazil left the family with a list. Her husband wants the Northern Pantanal and its jaguars. Sally wants Fernando de Noronha, Lençóis Maranhenses and Iguazu Falls, since she had to cut her trip short due to her injury.
The family visited Rio and Ilha Grande, but the weather wasn’t the best, so they want a second round. “I’d love to see it in the sunshine,” she commented.
Now that you have seen how the Aquidauana River area welcomes visitors through Sally and her family’s experience, you know what the South Pantanal has in store. So what’s left to do is see it for yourself!
Photo: Rico
PlanetaEXO is an ecotourism platform specializing in Southern Pantanal tours. Working alongside experienced local guides and operators, we handle the logistics (the transfer from Campo Grande, the lodge, the meals, and the activity program), so your family can focus on the experience itself. Contact us now!
From a 12-million-year-old volcano to a record turtle season, these 10 Fernando de Noronha facts explain what makes this archipelago worth the visit
Fernando de Noronha is a volcanic archipelago of 21 islands in the equatorial Atlantic, about 345 km off Brazil’s northeast coast. It belongs to the state of Pernambuco, and only its main island is inhabited. Roughly 70% of its land and sea area is protected within a marine national park, an area officially recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001.
Learning some Fernando de Noronha facts helps travelers get a better feel of the place, such as its history, rich wildlife, and conservation initiatives. Want to know what this island hides?
PlanetaEXO, an ecotourism platform specializing in Fernando de Noronha tours, has put together this list of 10 facts you should know before booking your trip. Check it out below!
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1. It’s a 21-island volcanic archipelago up to 12 million years old
The whole archipelago measures 26 km², spread across 21 islands, islets, and rocks. The main Fernando de Noronha island accounts for about 17 km² of that and is the only one with people living on it; the rest are uninhabited islets that serve as seabird colonies.
The islands are the visible tip of an extinct volcanic system. Geologists recognize two main phases of volcanism: the Remédios Formation, whose oldest dated rock is about 12.3 million years old, and the younger Quixaba Formation, active roughly 3.3 to 1.7 million years ago.
Those lava flows and volcanic plugs explain the dark cliffs and pinnacles, such as Morro do Pico.
2. Closer to Africa than to São Paulo
Where is Fernando de Noronha, exactly? The nearest mainland point is Cabo de São Roque, in Rio Grande do Norte, 345 km away. Natal is 361 km away, and Recife is 545 km away.
The archipelago sits about 2,600 km from Africa, closer than it is to São Paulo (2,772 km) and closer than Curitiba or Porto Alegre, in the south of Brazil. It also lies in the path of the South Equatorial Current, which flows westward across the Atlantic and bathes the islands in warm water of around 26–27 °C.
Photo: Google Maps
One popular claim doesn’t hold up, though: Fernando de Noronha, Brazil, is not the country’s easternmost point. On the mainland, that title belongs to Ponta do Seixas, in Paraíba. Counting islands, the easternmost Brazilian territory is the Martim Vaz group, part of the Trindade and Martim Vaz archipelago, which sits farther east in the Atlantic, on the Espírito Santo coast.
3. BR-363 is the only federal highway on an oceanic island
Noronha has its own federal highway. The BR-363 runs 6.8 km, from the Port of Santo Antônio to Baía do Sueste, according to DNIT, Brazil’s federal transport infrastructure department.
DNIT describes it as the smallest highway in Brazil’s Northeast and the only one on an oceanic island. It’s often called the shortest federal highway in the whole country, but that superlative is disputed.
4. It went from Brazil’s first captaincy to a prison island
The recorded history of Fernando de Noronha starts in 1503, when a Portuguese expedition sighted the islands. In 1504, King Manuel I granted them to the merchant Fernão de Loronha as the Captaincy of São João, Brazil’s first hereditary captaincy. Loronha never settled there, but the archipelago still carries his name.
Portugal only took firm control in 1737, building a defensive network of 10 forts and turning the island into a penal colony. It remained a prison for about two centuries: a common jail until 1938, then a prison for political detainees.
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In 1942, during World War II, Brazil made Noronha a Federal Territory, transferred the prisoners to Ilha Grande, and hosted a US Navy base near Baía do Sueste.
Military administration followed for decades (first the Army, then the Air Force and the Armed Forces General Staff) until 1988, when the new Brazilian Constitution returned the archipelago to Pernambuco. The same year, most of it became a national park.
5. UNESCO World Heritage Site and visitation control
In 2001, UNESCO inscribed the Brazilian Atlantic Islands: Fernando de Noronha and Atol das Rocas Reserves on its World Heritage list, recognizing their natural beauty, the ecological processes of oceanic islands, and their importance for threatened species.
@visitbrasil
The core of that protection is Fernando de Noronha National Park, officially a Marine National Park, created in 1988 and managed by ICMBio, Brazil’s federal protected-areas agency. It covers about 70% of the archipelago, land and sea; the inhabited area falls within an Environmental Protection Area with looser rules.
The park also holds Baía do Sancho, named the world’s best beach by Tripadvisor’s Travelers’ Choice awards six times (2014, 2015, 2017, 2019, 2020, and 2023).
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To protect this beauty, an agreement between ICMBio and Pernambuco caps visits at 132,000 a year and 11,000 a month and establishes two fees, which are updated periodically:
Environmental Preservation Fee (TPA): R$ 105.79 for one day and R$ 901.36 for 10 days.
National park ticket: R$ 384 for foreign visitors and R$ 192 for Brazilians (valid for 10 days).
6. Just over 3,000 residents and (almost) no births on the island
Brazil’s 2022 census counted 3,167 residents, up from 2,630 in 2010: the population grew by about 20% in 12 years, all of it concentrated on the main island.
This figure is directly linked to an unusual Fernando de Noronha fact: births are avoided on the island. The maternity ward at Hospital São Lucas closed in 2004, and pregnant residents are expected to travel to the mainland at around 28 weeks (the seventh month) to give birth, with expenses covered by the public authorities.
It’s a health protocol, not a law, and emergencies still happen: in July 2026, a woman gave birth in Noronha at 41 weeks.
7. Its endemic species earned it the nickname “Galápagos of Brazil”
Like the Galápagos, Noronha evolved in isolation, and part of its fauna exists nowhere else. The nickname “Galápagos of Brazil” is a media label rather than an official title, but the endemic species behind it are real. Fernando de Noronha wildlife includes:
Noronha elaenia (Elaenia ridleyana), a small flycatcher found only on the archipelago.
Noronha vireo (Vireo gracilirostris), a songbird listed as Vulnerable by BirdLife International.
Noronha skink (Trachylepis atlantica), the lizard often seen sunbathing on rocks and trails.
10 endemic reef fish species, according to the district administration’s marine fauna survey, among them the Noronha cleaner goby (Elacatinus phthirophagus), found nowhere else on Earth, and the Rocas gregory (Stegastes rocasensis), found mainly around Noronha and nearby Atol das Rocas.
The archipelago also shelters one of the largest seabird breeding colonies in the tropical South Atlantic, with red-footed boobies, brown boobies, frigatebirds, and tropicbirds nesting on its cliffs and outer islets.
A fact about Fernando de Noronha is that a good chunk of visitors, mainly professional or amateur divers, are attracted by its rich marine wildlife. Three groups of animals are worth mentioning.
Photo: Pamela Rech
Spinner dolphins
The spinner dolphins of Fernando de Noronha gather in Baía dos Golfinhos to rest after feeding offshore at night.
Between 1991 and 2015, researchers from Projeto Golfinho Rotador recorded them entering the bay on 94% of days, in groups ranging from 2 to 2,719 animals, an average of 284 a day. UNESCO and the IUCN describe it as the highest known population of resident dolphins in the world.
Because swimming and boats are strictly prohibited inside Baía dos Golfinhos, visitors can observe the dolphins early in the morning from the clifftop lookout at Mirante dos Golfinhos.
Photo: Sandro Rodrigues
Sharks
The most common sharks in Fernando de Noronha are nurse sharks, lemon sharks, and Caribbean reef sharks. Since the surrounding waters serve as crucial nursery grounds for juveniles, sightings are a regular highlight for both snorkelers and scuba divers.
Photo: Sandro Rodrigues
Attacks on humans are rare, but it is important to remember that these are wild animals. Sharks tend not to bother anyone unless they are disturbed. Therefore, during diving expeditions, keep your distance and follow your instructor’s guidelines.
Sea turtles
The sea turtles in Fernando de Noronha belong to two species. Green turtles (Chelonia mydas) come ashore to nest from December to June or July, mainly on Praia do Leão. The 2024/25 season set a record, with more than 766 nests, the highest count since monitoring began in 1994.
Hawksbill turtles (Eretmochelys imbricata) don’t nest here; juveniles feed on the reefs, making snorkel sightings common. Listed as Critically Endangered by the IUCN after an 80%+ decline over three generations, they receive strict protection.
@dohertyphotography
Furthermore, Leão Beach is the primary nesting site for green sea turtles, but it is closed at night and has restricted access from 5 PM onwards.
9. Shipwrecks and coral reefs
Below the surface, the district administration counts 169 reef fish species and 11 coral species. Noronha’s reefs also hide some of Brazil’s best-known wreck dives.
The most famous is the Corveta Ipiranga V-17, a Brazilian Navy corvette that struck the submerged Cabeço da Sapata rock in October 1983 and sank in about eight hours, with no deaths. It now rests upright at 55–62 meters, a technical dive reserved for specially trained divers.
Much closer to the surface, two Greek ships lie side by side in Baía de Santo Antônio: the Eleni Stathatos, which ran aground in 1929, and the Maria Stathatos, which burned in port in 1937, both in 1 to 8 meters of water.
10. Plastic-free island in transition to clean energy
In December 2018, the district administration signed the Noronha Plástico Zero decree, which took effect in April 2019. It bans the sale and use of single-use plastics on the island, including straws, cups, plates, cutlery, plastic bags, styrofoam food containers, and plastic bottles under 500 ml.
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Energy is the harder problem. Most of the island’s electricity still comes from the Tubarão thermal power plant, which burns diesel and biodiesel, while the Noronha I and II solar plants supply around 10%.
However, that is starting to change: the Noronha Verde project, led by the power company Neoenergia, combines 22 MWp of solar panels with a 49 MWh battery system. Its first panels have been feeding the grid in testing since May 2026, with full operation planned for 2027 and a goal of 100% renewable electricity.
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Now that you know these 10 Fernando de Noronha facts, it’s time to see the island up close!
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